The fresh lateral moraine had another chances, a granite- slip decreasing on a regular basis after ten a

Publicado em 17 de março de 2022, por COMPMGG

The fresh lateral moraine had another chances, a granite- slip decreasing on a regular basis after ten a


The fresh new members: Piotr Mlotecki (leader), W. Branski, A great. Gardas, W. Klaput, Meters. Malatynski K. Olech (deputy commander), J. Olszewski, M. Piatkowski, An excellent. Pietraszek (doctor), M. Rogalski, Z. Rubinoski, A. Sobolewski, Z. Staszyszyn, An effective. Strumitto and S. Wdowiak.

The first ASCENT From KANGBACHEN, 1974

The initial cluster spanning A beneficial. Gardas, M. Malatynski, K. Olech, J. Olszewski, Yards. Rogalski, A. Sobolewski which have Jepa, Sonam and a dozen porters came to the fresh new Ramtang Valley into age set where Jugoslav expedition got within the 1965.

I reach works getting ready Ft towards the head caravan group, undertaking the reconnaissance of your own npper area of the area and you can watching the newest icefall and you will moraine whereby the latest Jugoslavs reached the first patio of Kangbachen.

The latest icefall, designed at a few levels try extremely fractured together with snowfall layer it’s surface made tough the early observance off crevasses. The brand new sides of icefall had been endangered by avalanches, that eventually could well be considering the fresh new seraes on earliest patio. m. relaxed and resulting in avalanches of different sizes. Due to the recce we selected a secure station from the middle of icefall, they getting a comparatively silent region within seracs and also the snowfields therefore we going.

Towards 20 April, i pitched the original short term tent at the top of the newest embankment off the original patio (5750 yards.). 2 days later i receive a path from the moraine hence is actually endangered smaller of the brick-avalanches compared to one to used by the brand new Jugoslavs. Go camping I became dependent into the twenty-eight April at the 5400 m. on icefall however, try just for use when moving new plenty. Go camping II (5850 m.) is actually a 3rd of your own way up the original terrace. To your six Could possibly get, we had been already inside the a short-term tent within 6200 yards., lower than a steep face ultimately causing brand new apparent seat amongst the earliest patio while the Jannu Valley. That it unsealed slope try covered with fixed ropes. Our functions try carried out in continued snow and you can cinch blowing frequently till the noon. Early in the new day out-of eleven Get, I leftover brand new tent (during the 6200 m.) which have A beneficial. Sobolewski for the Legs Camp. We went down rapidly – 1 hour to Go camping II, 1J days in order to Camp I and also by 9-29 an effective.yards. we had been already when you look at the Ft Go camping. This new route from icefall not lived! Repaired ropes and you can markers was around freeze dust – around need started a huge movement from freeze blocks.

We met all in Legs Go camping. Right here i decided to generate an alternate approach to the original terrace from higher a portion of the horizontal moraine in which i noticed alternatively smaller falling stones today than simply step three weeks eardier. To the p I and introduced their gizmos to help you Camp II. Out of this big date you will find zero Go camping We but we proceeded to retain the prior numeration. We centered Camp III (6350 meters.) towards the saddle.

Into the p III, i leftover the beds base Go camping and J. Olszewski and you may went to Camp II. The brand new route via moraine are realistically designated to your adorned stone-cairns by S. Wdowiak and you may Sherpa Wangchuck just who showed a significant aesthetic show in the carrying out that actually work. The group regarding P. Mlotecki showed up on the exact same date so you’re able to Feet Go camping. Various other cluster-members are there except the brand new Sirdar who’d gone to Ghunza.

Following day i attained Go camping III and you may came back for the evening into the tent beneath the saddle, where in fact the piece of cake was not therefore striking. Toward 16 Can get, a robust snap made the latest productive step very hard The group off W. Branski circulate a bit to come along side seat, then descended so you’re able to Base, immediately following restoring ropes. Overnight i repaired these types of ropes having carried on have fun with, produced them expanded of the about some other a hundred yards. and you may turned back with the night so you’re able to Camp III.